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We stood out on deck, flinching in the wind, as the ferry headed up
the Lynn Canal, Juneau Harbour fading in the wake. Ice-capped massifs towered
over us, dense forests rolled down to the shore and a large pod of orcas
breached port side. Alaska can make you feel quite small. Fiona and I had come
to climb Mount Fairweather. Don't feel abashed if you haven't heard of it.
Having been spotted and inappropriately named by Captain James Cook back in
1778, this 4660-metre peak on Alaska's west coast has since then generally been
swaddled in cloud. We were only there because it happened to be on my list.
When police claimed to have found a hit list in Radovan Krejcir's
home, sceptics suggested it was planted: surely a ruthless criminal wouldn't
need to write down the four names he planned to bump off. But to me it rang
true. For in my experience, every man has a list to tick off. After all, that's
what gives our lives purpose. Having collected the seven continental summits
and three poles, plus all the James Bond videos, my life was drifting
aimlessly, till a friend directed me to a website listing prominent peaks,
alluringly titled the 'World's Finest Fifty'.
The
concept of prominence is rather like black hole theory: just when you think
you've got it, it slips away from you, especially when you're trying to explain
it. Essentially, a peak's prominence is calculated by taking the highest point
on the planet (Everest) and then, assuming you were able to traverse over
whatever terrain lies in between, measuring how far you'd have to climb up
again. Island high points are easy enough, with their prominence matching their
elevation above sea level. But for all others, it's a more complicated task,
requiring you to locate the key saddle separating them from their parent.
Fortunately, the authors of the website had performed all these calculations,
leaving me just to find the peaks in my atlas. Then again, for some that was
tricky enough. Despite their grand title,
the World's Finest Fifty are a rather mixed bunch. For instance, besides
Everest, three other Himalayan giants (K2, Kanchenjunga and Nanga Parbat) make
the list, but so does 3700-metre Teide on Tenerife, which you can take a
funicular up. Similarly, while Tibet's Namcha Barwa has seen just a single
ascent, you can drive up Hawaii's Mauna Kea. And whereas some are technically
challenging, others are virtually impossible to get to, such as Antarctica's
Erebus and Colombia's Colon Cristobel, located smack bang in prime drug-growing
land. Though I wasn't sufficiently deluded to think I could ever complete the
Finest Fifty, I did think I might reach forty. And, somewhat egotistically, I
wanted to climb more of them than anyone else. Hence, my visit to Fairweather,
which according to the website was the world's 26th most prominent
peak, with... Read more
IMAGE: A Long way down to base camp. Photo Fiona Mcintosh
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