The Gordian Edge     The Gordian Edge, which now tumbles amidst some controversy, is a true via ferrata, requiring more than just hiking abilities - the most of important of which is a bit of 'head', or as we like to call it here, 'kop', for exposure. The route covers a vertical distance of about 200 metres over three long pitches and employs about 400 metres of cable. The only other true via ferrata in South Africa lies in the Magaliesberg at Shelter Rock, otherwise there are only a handful of routes that employ chain rails and metal staples for assistance, but these are not really classified as bona fide vie ferrate. The Gordian Edge takes an interesting line up Beacon Buttress, next to Sentinel Peak in the northern Drakensberg, and features some magnificent exposure and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. If the cables are used soley for protection and not for aid, the route goes at a grade of 16 and has been climbed and enjoyed by climbers in high-tech approach shoes and complete novices (albeit fit and strong novices) in running shoes; and the looks on all of their faces during, and at the end, are of exultant pleasure and delight. To climb a via ferrata you need some special equipment. Ignore this at your peril. The critical piece of gear are the two shock absorbing lanyards that are attached to your harness on the one side and then clipped to the cable system with a large carabiner. This is really important, as even a short fall from as little as one metre has the capacity to break your back if there is no shock absorber. With two lanyards you are always connected to the system while unclipping the one to move over anchor points. Do not make the mistake of assuming that two short lengths of dynamic rope will do the trick; there is simply not enough rope to adequately absorb the shock of a fall. Think about it . . . would you lead a route with a static rope? Rather invest in the right gear. There are a number of via ferrata kits on the market. The Gordian Edge was erected over a period of about five weeks by a number of mates who had . . . Read more... IMAGE: Jay Hyde halfway through pitch one. Photo ALARD HüFNER